Crocheted Wisteria

I was going to crochet a spring wreath with multiple flowers and leaves, but when I did the first Wisteria drop, the plan shifted.

Photo description: Crocheted Wisteria wreath made with acrylic yarn hung on a red door

I did make some other types of flowers, then abandoned them all to just make Wisteria. The drops are easy to make and rather addictive. The basic plan is similar to making a crocheted worm or spiral.

Make a chain of 30, then chain 3, single crochet into the same chain three times for 10 chains. In the next 10 chains, make 5 chain loops, and in the last 10 chains, make 7 chain loops.

I varied the number of initial chains, experimented with slip stitches instead of single crochets, and changed the ratios of 3, 5, and 7 chains sections. I also tried different color combinations.

I did use some of the leaves I crocheted and applied them to the crochet covered wire wreath, by sewing them on. The bark-like texture was achieved by doing a chain embroidery stitch (I used my crochet hook, with the yarn held behind the wreath.)

I’m not entirely in love with the multi colored Wisteria drops, but we are rapidly running out of Spring here in Texas, and the winter wreath on the front door needed to come down.

Throwback Thursday: crocheted baby hats

In June 2017 I used up leftover acrylic yarn to make several baby hats.

Photo description: five yellow crocheted baby hats with rippled brims

The pattern is:

Row 1: In a magic circle make a standing double crochet (sdc), then double crochet (dc) 9 into the circle, slip stitch (ss) to sdc (10 stitches total).

Row 2: sdc, dc in same space, 2dc in each stitch, ss to sdc (20 stitches total).

Row 3: sdc, dc in same space, dc in next stitch, *2dc in next stitch, dc in next stitch*, repeat around, ss to sdc (30 stitches total).

Row 4: sdc, dc in same space, dc in next stitch twice, *2dc in next stitch, dc in next stitch twice*, repeat around, ss to sdc (40 stitches total).

Row 5-8: sdc, dc around (40 stitches total).

Row 9: *skip 1 stitch, 5dc in same space, skip 1 stitch, single crochet in next stitch*, repeat around, tie off, weave in end (10 shells.)

Photo description: crocheted baby hat, pattern test with acrylic/cotton yarn and 5.5mm hook, needle and scissors

I did a pattern test, and have to admit that it took me a couple tries. Counting stitches from a picture isn’t always easy.

Brioche fail

I had another knitter who wanted to talk brioche knitting, so I had to brush up on my skills. I found a beautiful variegated yarn and decided to work from the inside and the outside of the skein, which was stunning done in the two-color brioche ribbing.

Photo description: beginning brioche knitting with variegated yarn, orange leg out on the calico cat on my lap

The color shifts are stunning, but the mistakes in the knit were not. I have a 10 second rule: if a casual observer can’t see the mistake in 10 seconds don’t fix it. My mistakes added up and overwhelmed the rule.

Photo description: brioche knitting with numerous errors, a jag around row 8, misaligned yarn overs, and somehow loosing two columns, laying on a dilute calico cat

The yarn I’m working with is delicate, ripping out the knitting would have made the yarn unusable. Continuing on with all the mistakes was unthinkable, so I bound off and am going to try again.

And yes, those are pictures of two different cats on my lap. I have become a battle ground in cat chess.

Two needles, two socks

I love knitting two socks at the same time on two circular needles, but I forget how to do the initial setup every time. Every. Time. So to help my future self, here is what worked this time (after many trials and errors.)

Photo description: loosely cast on 66 stitches using the long tail cast-on method with fingering weight wool yarn on Prym 2.5mm circular needle
Photo description: 33 stitches slipped knit-wise onto a second circular needle

With the first sock cast on and divided onto two separate circular needles, I cast on 66 stitches for the second sock and transferred all the stitches to a stitch holder.

Photo description: transferring 33 stitches from the stitch holder to a circular needle
Photo description: all stitches for both socks transferred to two circular needles so that the “U” shape of each sock has the open side to the left and the closed side to the right

For me, the trickiest part is getting the two socks in the same direction on the needles, then keeping the stitches untwisted as I join the first row. After that, for me, it is smooth sailing. I never cross the two circular needles, always using the ends of one needle set to knit half of one sock, then half of the other sock (remember to switch yarn sources for each sock, so they stay separate.)

On this particular sock set, I will be knitting a 3×3 rib to start.

Twine as you go

I’ve been twining with plant bast fibers (the long ones from the stems of plants), and wondered if I could twine long wool. I selected some Teeswater from my stash that has a staple length around 5-8 inches, grabbed a sponge and a spray bottle of water, and started twining. There was a bumpy learning curve, especially since I decided to learn to twine left handed to get an opposite twist. I wanted an S twist direction because my current favorite nålbinding stitch has a bias Z twist, and I thought the opposite twist yarn would help. It didn’t really.

Photo description: twined Teeswater wool and the beginnings of a nålbound pouch sitting on my jeans in the car while waiting in the pickup line

As I write this post, I’m wondering if the twist in my work is the stitch, or the method of construction I’m attempting. I’m working in the round, which is typical for nålbinding, but I’m working around a long base chain, which is a little different. I’ll keep on and see if things even out, either as I go, or after I block the finished work.

The exciting part of this project is there are no joins in the yarn, rather, the yarn is created as I go.