It works!

The new bearing that I made for an antique great wheel works! It is slightly longer than the original, but since the maidens adjust separately, the fraction of an inch difference doesn’t affect functionality.

Photo description: my hand holding the original bearing on the left and the new one on the right

The shaft of the bearing ended up being a little thick. It was a tight fit, but needed to be able to rotate to hold the accelerator wheel as the maiden post was twisted up or down. I used my pocket knife to shave off some of the wood so the bearing could rotate.

Photo description: bearing with the shaft narrowed held in my hand next to the maiden post, spindle visible below
Photo description: fully assembled accelerator head on a great wheel with new bearing on the left side of the picture and the original bearing on the right

I spun for about an hour, working on my yarn width consistency and testing out my new part. It worked just fine! And rotated in the socket when it came time to stop and release the tension on the drive bands. I always lighten the tension between spinning sessions so the bands don’t stretch. I don’t loosen them enough to come off when stationary, which is standard practice for spinners. I can see though, how someone coming along and turning the wheel might be startled by the drive bands coming off or the parts not moving. The bands just need to be tightened before use.

Rosette square

Here is the next square from the book Granny Square Flair, called Rosette. This one had many firsts for me, with construction of the flower and the making of the frame.

Photo description: “Rosette” square crocheted in dark teal alpaca yarn

I’m hoping it evens out when I block it, which I’ll do in batches. Hm. I could probably start blocking these as I go. My plan is to put them on a grid with pegs, so they all come out the same size, and I certainly can’t put all 50 on at the same time.

Small for the Great

The Great Wheel I spun with in the basement of the Doss had one accelerator wheel support bearing missing. The previous spinner’s solution was a bit of dowel and a pin, which worked just fine, but I wanted to try to make a replacement bearing.

Photo description: original bearing for the accelerator head on a great wheel next to a tape measure

I took a picture of the original bearing next to a tape measure so I had the measurements. Sorting through my stash I found some copper pipe that was about the right internal diameter of the side hole. This is the main point of friction, so having it lined with metal gives it a longer wear time. I drilled a hole through a 1/2” oak dowel and friction fit the copper pipe (hit it until it went through), then sanded the ends flush with the wood. Since carving small bits of wood is difficult, I worked with a long piece of dowel and carved the shaft at the end next.

Photo description: end of the dowel carved down to a quarter of an inch using a straight blade on a utility knife

My lathe needs assessment and all the bands broke on my belt sander, so I used a small round file to carve the decorative grooves on the bearing, then a coping saw to cut off the new part from the dowel “handle”.

Photo description: roughed in bearing for an accelerator wheel on a great wheel made from oak and copper

I did some more sanding, then stained the part with dark wood stain to get it closer to the color of the other bearing.

Photo description: stained bearing laying in a white paper towel

Now it is time to line up a meeting with The Doss to see if the part fits and works with the great wheel!

Throwback Thursday: iron pipe coat rack

In August 2018 I made two coat racks from black iron pipe for my “modern farmhouse” style home.

Photo description: two wall mounted coat racks made from black iron pipe pieces

Each coat rack uses: two base plates, two 90 degree angles, 2 one-inch threaded pipes, 3 four-and-a-half inch threaded pipes, 4 T joints, 4 forty-five degree elbows, and 4 caps.

In “belt and suspenders” style, I superglued the screw joins to keep the angles, then filled the pipes with two-part epoxy. Once the epoxy cured I screwed them to the wall on the studs.

Photo description: backpacks hanging on the iron pipe racks

I can report that 8 years later these racks are just as sturdy as the day I installed them. With the epoxy inside there is no taking them apart!

Stress ball tip

I don’t like stress balls that have a tacky or even slightly tacky surface. Some people might, we are all different, but the feel is not for me. To solve the sticky problem I rubbed some corn starch into the surface. It doesn’t take much powder for the stickiness to be gone.

Photo description: no rebound coconut oil stress ball with a thin coat of corn starch to remove the tacky feel

I was actually looking for a different kind of stress ball, but the description of the coconut oil with no rebound was intriguing. I can report that the experience is… meh. It is interesting for about two minutes after I shape it into a cube, then I’m done. I don’t recommend squeezing it very tightly.