Two needles, two socks

On By CarynIn Craft

I love knitting two socks at the same time on two circular needles, but I forget how to do the initial setup every time. Every. Time. So to help my future self, here is what worked this time (after many trials and errors.)

Photo description: loosely cast on 66 stitches using the long tail cast-on method with fingering weight wool yarn on Prym 2.5mm circular needle
Photo description: 33 stitches slipped knit-wise onto a second circular needle

With the first sock cast on and divided onto two separate circular needles, I cast on 66 stitches for the second sock and transferred all the stitches to a stitch holder.

Photo description: transferring 33 stitches from the stitch holder to a circular needle
Photo description: all stitches for both socks transferred to two circular needles so that the “U” shape of each sock has the open side to the left and the closed side to the right

For me, the trickiest part is getting the two socks in the same direction on the needles, then keeping the stitches untwisted as I join the first row. After that, for me, it is smooth sailing. I never cross the two circular needles, always using the ends of one needle set to knit half of one sock, then half of the other sock (remember to switch yarn sources for each sock, so they stay separate.)

On this particular sock set, I will be knitting a 3×3 rib to start.

Twine as you go

On By CarynIn Craft, Uncategorized

I’ve been twining with plant bast fibers (the long ones from the stems of plants), and wondered if I could twine long wool. I selected some Teeswater from my stash that has a staple length around 5-8 inches, grabbed a sponge and a spray bottle of water, and started twining. There was a bumpy learning curve, especially since I decided to learn to twine left handed to get an opposite twist. I wanted an S twist direction because my current favorite nålbinding stitch has a bias Z twist, and I thought the opposite twist yarn would help. It didn’t really.

Photo description: twined Teeswater wool and the beginnings of a nålbound pouch sitting on my jeans in the car while waiting in the pickup line

As I write this post, I’m wondering if the twist in my work is the stitch, or the method of construction I’m attempting. I’m working in the round, which is typical for nålbinding, but I’m working around a long base chain, which is a little different. I’ll keep on and see if things even out, either as I go, or after I block the finished work.

The exciting part of this project is there are no joins in the yarn, rather, the yarn is created as I go.

Antler nål

On By CarynIn Craft

Awhile back I rough shaped several needles for nålbinding from deer antler I purchased from a neighbor. I need a smaller diameter nål for a new project, so did the final shaping and polishing with progressive grits of sandpaper on one.

Photo description: nål made from deer antler, approximately 7” long with curve and two holes for yarn

To make the nål I used a bandsaw to split the antler into narrow sections, then used a band sander to shape. The holes were drilled with a drill press. To get the elongated oval hole, I drilled two circular holes next to each other and then used the drill bit to mostly remove the remaining points. To finish, I shaped it using 120 grit sandpaper, then refined with 320 and finished with 400 grit sandpaper. I tested the smoothness of the holes and sides by running it through a wad of unspun wool.

Throwback Thursday: coin pendant

On By CarynIn Uncategorized

In May of 2017 I made a custom wire wrap so that a coin could be worn as a necklace.

Photo description: Black Belt coin with gold colored wire wrap on a leather cord with loop and knot closure

The wire wrap is constructed with three circles of wire just slightly larger than the coin, wrapped together at four points. The top circle crimps inward to hold the front of the coin, and the bottom layer crimps inward to hold the back of the coin, leaving the center circle to frame the coin. At the top I made a loop for the leather cord.

Sock experiment #2

On By CarynIn Uncategorized

Previously I tried making a pair of spiral socks, where the spiral rib fits the heel without having to make a gusset or turn a heel when knitting. This kind of sock also is independent of foot length, making it a great choice when shoe size is unknown, or you are dealing with growing feet. It worked, so I started a second pair. About half way through the second pair, we discovered that the first pair didn’t stay up very well. The spiral fit the heel, no matter how the socks were put on, but tended to slide down the foot. I have to admit that I lost interest in the project for a while. Eventually I came back to it and decided to just finish off the sock in stockinette stitch and do an even decrease to make a round toe.

Photo description: blue and yellow socks with a spiral rib ankle and heel and stockinette ball of foot to the toe, ends not woven in

I wove in the ends and had my youngest try them on.

Photo description: socks on feet with a good fit, ends woven in

The socks look strange, but fit well. I feel they will have the same issue sliding down the foot without some modification. For the next pair, I plan to make the ankle a standard rib, use the spiral rib for the heel, a rib across the arch, and a stockinette toe with round finish. The goal is to have a sock that can be put on easily without having to align a heel, but still stays in place.