Hemp page

I finished another fiber page (really I did three together, but I’m going to spread it out in this blog). This page is about hemp. The hemp top, combed hemp fibers, came in a collection of plant fibers as a gift from my sister. I spun the singles on a drop spindle, then made a two-ply yarn using a different drop spindle. The fiber was nice to spin, but the resulting yarn was stiff and scratchy, even after setting the twist by boiling. Hemp is usually used to make rope and strong fabrics, certainly not anything you would want next to your skin. I made a knitted swatch with size 4 needles, a crocheted round with size C hook, and a woven sample with four salvages using a Clover mini-loom and doubling the warp threads. Even though I wouldn’t make clothing with this yarn, I think it is the neatest page I’ve done so far.

Photo description: Clockwise from top left, card from Hearthside fibers, three bobbins with single, 2-ply, and set 2-ply yarn, crocheted lace round, woven not-quite rectangle (still working on my weaving tension), knitted rectangle, and a card stock drawer with hemp fiber.

Flax page

I finally finished my flax page. This is internet-sourced combed top flax, which is an unusual preparation. It is the short fibers left over from processing the long fibers, combed together. This particular sample was also dyed, probably with nettle dye. There was very little information from the seller (buyer beware). I did manage to spin it in on a drop spindle, using a sponge to wet my fingers. Linen yarn needs to be boiled to set the twist and soften the fibers. When I boiled mine, I used tap water, which has traces of iron. The soft green color turned to a soft orange. The picture below shows the color change especially across the paper bobbins.

Photo description: 12×12 page with floral paper binding; the original fiber label top left; paper bobbins holding the yarn as a single, a two ply unset (green), and two ply set (orange) top right; unspun fiber in a paper drawer middle left; plain weave sample middle right; knitted sample bottom left; weft-faced weave bottom right.

I did a knit swatch on size 4 needles. It isn’t precise, probably due to the variations in yarn thickness, and has a bias, probably due to over twist of either the single or the ply. Still, it isn’t as rough as I thought it would be and has some nice drape.

I obtained a Clover brand mini-loom to make the woven samples. The first weaving (bottom right) I followed directions on warping the loom and ended up with a weft-faced weave. Interesting, but not what I wanted. The second time (middle right) I wrapped the warp completely around the loom and doubled the number of warp threads. This brought the epi (ends per inch) up and let me do a plain weave that showed both the warp and the weft.

I swear I did a crochet swatch too, but I must have stashed it somewhere safe. I do still want to spin traditionally prepared flax, but I’m not likely to buy combed top flax again.

Adventures with a mini loom

I recently used points to get a Clover mini loom. I have been using scraps of cardboard to weave samples of my spun fibers to go in my fiber journal, so this was an upgrade!

First finished linen swatch, forgot to take progress photos, warped for fringe on the bottom only, came out a weft-faced weave

I started by following directions, amazingly, but the spacing of the tines were very wide and gave me a weft-faced weave, where the warp threads are completely covered by the weft yarn. This is the technique used for tapestry weaving, but not what I was looking for.

Linen warp doubled up and wrapped completely around the loom, starting with a twined row to space the threads

The next attempt I doubled the yarn in each slot by wrapping the warp yarn completely around the loom. This gave me fringe on top and bottom when it was finished, but the weave came out with both the warp and weft showing.

Linen woven swatch with knotted fringe

I moved on to my hemp yarn, and of course I forgot to take progress photos, but I doubled up the warp thread by making loops around the tines, resulting in a fringeless swatch. I found I didn’t need the twined first row to space the threads. It came out a bit wonky, but I am seeing process improvement.

Four-selvage hemp yarn woven swatch

Woven hat band

For my Dad, I took an end section of my Inkle woven band (post from yesterday) and made it into an adjustable hat band.

Woven hat band

I sewed where I wanted to put the end before cutting it, then sewed it over again to catch all the ends inside the seam. For the pin, I used a shanked button from my button stash. I believe this one is vintage, but sometimes my buttons get mixed. To make a button into a pin, I use a spiral wire with the end sharpened.

Back of button and handmade pin converter
Button installed on pin converter

I brushed out the fringe on the woven band and shaped it to mimic a feather. The weaving is doubled back so won’t unravel, and I think the spray of yarn adds a bit of flare to the band (although it will probably have to be combed out straight occasionally). To set the band size, the pin holds the ends of the band together.

Fringe and pin

Weaving handspun

After spinning all my merino wool roving, I used it to warp my inkle loom. This is my first time weaving with my own hand-spun yarn.

Inkle loom half warped with hand-spun yarn

I did learn to review instructions before starting, I thought I could warp the loom, then put on the heddles, but I forgot the warp path for non-heddled yarn is different. I had to go back and untie and retie many warp threads. Lesson learned.

Weaving started using recycled plastic strips

I used strips of plastic cut from an empty laundry container to start the weaving and keep it straight. This also saves some unwoven warp to keep as fringe in the finished weaving.

Helper (not)

Weaving went slowly because I couldn’t progress while the kitten was awake. He wanted to help.

Wool build up on heddle strings

Another challenge was the halo on my wool. The little fibers that stray out of the spun yarn like to stick together, especially when passing other little fibers on other threads. Oy. I found if I went slower and took time to separate the warp threads when I changed the shed, things went smoother. The felted wads on heddle strings are a testament to how much wool likes to felt.

Finished band

I gave the band a light felting, just by taking it back and forth from hot water to cold water. I then laid it out to dry.

Gently felting the band

Happy Father’s Day to all those that give stability and guidance. Tomorrow I’ll share what I made for my Dad.