Fabric treat bags

Last year’s Easter baskets are being used for storage. I needed something to put the candy and eggs in that wasn’t going to be then thrown away or contribute to the general clutter. Fabric baskets to the rescue. I used fabric and stabilizer from my stash, and sewed on the Singer model 66 treadle machine.

Photo description: finished bag with the top folded down to make a basket, sitting on the table of the treadle sewing machine.
Step 1: 14×20 fabric with iron on interfacing on the bottom 2/3, sewn on the short end, right sides together, then the seam moved to the center.
Step 2: 2.25” squares cut from the lower corners of the fabric tube
Step 3: bottom edge sewn together
Step 4: box corners flattened out and sewn
Step 5: Steps 1-4 repeated for the lining, then the two bags put right sides together and the top sewn, leaving a gap to turn the bag right side out, then the gap sewn closed by making a seam along the top edge
Photo description: another bag with fabric with a definitive direction. To get the fold to work, the inside fabric is upside down, so the crows on the fabric stay upright when folded.
Photo description: unfolded bag, showing the full height

These bags came out quite tall, but since I didn’t put interfacing on the top third, they fold down easily. The interfacing I used did not stay fused to the fabric, and was quite papery, which would be great for a cat basket, but is slightly unwieldy for a treat bag. I recorded my steps here, but would not repeat these exact parameters. Future projects will involve experimenting with dimensions, and trying a softer interfacing, or maybe even batting and quilting. Hmm.

Just keep sewing… a knitting needle case

I purchased a bag of quilt scraps from my local quilt store. I love the owner’s eye for color, and it gives me something to exercise the Singer model 66 treadle sewing machine. I know that the scraps I sew together will eventually be used to make something purposeful, and this time I didn’t have to wait long.

The free bag I was using to hold my circular knitting needles disintegrated, literally. The outer coating was peeling off. Storing circular needles in a pouch is also problematic as they tend to tangle and be a right mess.

Photo description: tangle of knitting needles, cable, and cord, laying on a purple and silver ragged bag.

I decided that the long strips of fabric that I have been sewing together would do well for the base of a knitting needle case. I paired it with coordinating fabric from my stash (yes, I had matching fabric for the quilt scraps), and layout a folded design that will create 12 inner pockets and two outer pockets.

Photo description: long red and cream strips of fabric sewn together matched with an ivy print fabric laid out right sides together and double folded at each end to make pockets.

I sewed the two base pieces of fabric together using the treadle sewing machine, leaving a small gap, then turned the case right-side out. I pressed the whole piece, then laid out the side pocket folds. I sewed zippers across the edges of the outer pockets using oversized vintage zippers.

Photo description: two zipper halves, sewn facing away from each other on a flat piece of fabric will create a pocket when zipped together.
Photo description: two zippered pockets shown closed and laying on the table top of my treadle machine.

To make the inner pockets, I measured out three sections on each side and sewed from the top of the inner pocket down to a couple inches shy of the zipper. This is so when accessing the pockets from the zippered side, the bottom is closed, but the pockets aren’t too deep to reach the bottom. This took some experimentation. And seam ripping.

Photo description: 12 inner pockets shown with circular needles tucked inside and the dividing seam stopping two inches from the bottom.
Photo description: zippered pocket open to show two inches of clear space.

I hand-sewed the sides of the pockets together because there were 16 layers of fabric at the edge. None of my machines can handle that fabric load. A simple straight stitch with teeny tiny outside stitches did very well to pull the fabric together neatly.

I used the treadle machine to sew two long strips of fabric together, turned it right-side out, stitched along the edges, then sewed it into a circle to make the handles. I machine sewed the handle to the bottom of the bag, then hand sewed the handle to the top of the bag. To keep the bag closed, I cut some thin pieces of finished leather, cut in button holes, and sewed them to the sides of the bag. I found vintage red buttons in my button stash and hand sewed them on.

Photo description: finished knitting needle case

All done! All the sewing was done either by hand or with the 1916 treadle sewing machine. The zippers and buttons are vintage, and the whole project cost me only time, since the fabric was sourced from my stash. Now my circular knitting needles are neatly stored and organized, with space for stitch markers, rulers, and other knitting necessities in the zippered pockets.

Another way

Here is another way to reduce the likelihood that machine sewn stitches with unravel: tiny stitches. On a sewing machine that doesn’t have a reverse stitch, like my Singer model 66 treadle, turning the knob to the left to make the stitches smaller for a few stitches, then back right to increase the stitch length for the rest of the seam, is a little extra insurance. It also helps work the sewing machine oil (SMO) into the threads of the knob. Bonus.

Photo description: seam stitched on the diagonal of a light colored fabric strip showing smaller stitches at each end of the (wavy) stitch line.

This actually takes about the same time as turning the fabric and making a “reverse” stitch, currently. The stitch regulator knob of the 107-year-old machine is still a little stiff.

Yes, I can sew a straight line. I just need more practice sewing a straight line while turning a regulator knob and controlling the balance wheel so it doesn’t go backwards and break the thread. Goals.

Piecing

I bought a grab bag of scraps from the local quilt store because it had fabric that matched what I have in my stash. I set it on the sewing table of the Singer model 66 and later decided to try sewing some squares together. I haven’t pressed the seams yet, but I love the way the machine works. It is the advice from The Treadle Lady to take these old machines on a “Sunday drive”. Using them weekly encourages proper regular maintenance, and keeps everything moving.

Photo description: Four squares of red fabric sewn together on the surface of a Singer model 66.

Tatted bracelet

I saw a picture on Pinterest of a tatted bracelet that I recognized most of the elements used for construction. I’m having trouble interpreting written tatting instructions, but a picture is almost as good as a chart, and much easier for me to follow. I loaded up my tatting shuttle with #10 cotton, left it attached to the ball, and started with the ring part of the clasp. It took me a few hours to complete, and I carried it around in my purse for a while to work on when I was waiting. The bracelet is worked with the same series of a closed loop and a chain on both sides, and each connection used a picot.

Photo description: Tatted bracelet made of closed loops and chains with three picots. The clasp is made with a ring on one side and a cluster of closed rings on the other side.

I did have to join in more bobbin yarn, but the ends were easy to weave in with a needle. I joined the last chain to the opposite side with a square knot and wove in the ends. To block it, I soaked it in a solution of white glue and water, to give it some stiffness and protect it from staining. I need to experiment with the ratio of glue to water. The bracelet turned out stiff and itchy, and didn’t resist a tea stain when tea accidentally spilled across the counter.

Photo description: Blocking the bracelet on wax paper after soaking in a white glue and water solution.

The clasp works reasonably well, although it takes a different set of hands to close.

Photo description: Bracelet clasp shown closed with the loop cluster pulled through the opposite loop.
Photo description: Finished bracelet on my daughter’s wrist.

I need to work on the tension of my knots, the consistency of picot size, and the consistency of the closed loop size. I may try another bracelet to get the basics down. The tatted lace is sturdier than crocheted lace, but the counting slows me down, and I need a different way to hold the shuttle so it doesn’t hurt my thumb. So, not my favorite craft, but could be useful in a future project on a small scale.