Tag: wood work

Drop spindle experiment

On By CarynIn Craft

I’ve started to reread the book that started me spinning “Respect the Spindle” by Abby Franquemont. I don’t reread books often (Terry Pratchett excepted), and usually use books on craft as quick reference, but since I’m really enjoying spinning, and have been spinning daily, I thought I might understand the text better now. And I do.

The half hitch on my bottom whorl spindle has been giving me trouble, slowing down the production and acting a a frustrating bubble in an otherwise smooth flow (for a relative beginner). In her book, Ms Franquemont mentions many different methods for securing the yarn before adding twist, including using a notched shaft. I don’t have any notched shafts. So I made one. Rather than notch the shaft of my thin olive spindle, I started with a scrap of dowel from the garage. I shaped it using my belt sander, started the notch with a small saw, and refined the shape first with needle files, then with folded sandpaper.

Drop spindle shaped from a dowel

I kept the dowel thickness in the middle to try making yarn balls as one would with a nostepinne (yup, that is new to me too, but so cool!) The shaping is like a Russian supported spindle (roughly, the pictures I’ve seen are more elegant), but I’m using it also as a drop spindle (so I can walk and spin). I had to start spinning to test the notch, so my yarn may have a bit of wood dust as I refined the shape, spun, and refined some more.

View of notch grooves from the top of the spindle

My goal with the notch was to get the yarn closer to the center of spin as well as be functional for spinning clockwise or counterclockwise. The cone tip helps with flicking the spindle to spin, and the grooves actually help with grip. I have not applied any finishing oil as I may still tweak the shape. Sanding down to 400 grit though keeps the yarn from catching on the wood.

Tapestry weaving bobbins

On By CarynIn Craft

I have been weaving with my yarn tied into butterflies (not onto butterflies, which would be cruel and flappy, but the practice of looping yarn over two fingers and tying in the middle resembles a butterfly). They are easy to tie and require no additional equipment. For the most part the yarn management is easy, until near the end when you either have to retie the butterfly or deal with a long end. After looking through my book and magazine, I decided to make some tapestry weaving bobbins.

I chose mesquite because I had some scrap laying on my bench. I used the band saw to cut square dowels about 6 inches long and about 1/2 inch in diameter. The scrap from this looked useful, so I also made some small yarn shuttles.

Mesquite cut into blanks on a band saw

Then I moved on to my band sander to shape the bobbins, and smooth the shuttles.

Bobbins and shuttles shaped with a band sander

After roughing in the shape, I hand sanded all the pieces down to 400 grit. I have not finished them yet, as I am not sure they are at their final size (and I really wanted to start using them, and not wait for tung oil to dry!)

Hand sanded bobbins and shuttles and a cat who insisted in lap time even though I was sanding

I am pleased with the shape and feel of my bobbins. They could have been more regular if I turned them on a lathe, but I still haven’t secured my lathe in the rearranged garage, so this will do. Hand shaping has given them an organic feel, which is nice as well.

Interesting to note, I will have to be more careful when working with mesquite in the future. Like wearing a mask when I’m sanding, even if I only think it will take a few minutes (wear your dust mask kids!) After sanding I felt light headed, and the next day I had a headache. This is not my first wood sensitivity; I’m outright allergic to walnut and can’t work the wood at all. I did find a nifty chart with wood allergies and toxicity here (https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/), which lists Mesquite as sensitizing. So there you go.

Wooden ergonomic crochet hook

On By CarynIn Craft

Well this was fun! I made a crochet hook out of a chunk of mesquite. Rather than a straight dowel (which are harder to hold and manipulate), I made a handle shaped to my hand, then chiseled out an indentation for my thumb. Then I shaped the actual shaft and hook. It took me a couple tries to get the length right (I used some scrap cotton to test), but found a good length and refined the head. I sanded down to 400 grit and sealed with tung oil. The shaft is a size K hook. I could probably have gone smaller, but we’ll see how this one performs. I sent it off to my Mom for the holidays!

Finished mesquite crochet hook
Back of crochet hook with wood burned lettering
Side of crochet hook

Wooden tongs

On By CarynIn Craft

And the reveal… wooden tongs! I made wooden tongs as gifts this year. I used mesquite wood for the blades and wedge, but wasn’t confident with glue joints so learned to set brass pins. I posted on that previously, but didn’t show what I was actually making (spoilers).

Mesquite wood tongs shaped and sanded to 400 grit

After shaping and sanding, I did my usual water rinse to raise the grain, and was quite surprised that the mesquite was still quite smooth. I ran over everything with 400 grit again, just to be thorough. I added some embellishments with wood burning, then sealed with butcher block conditioner (which is a food safe mix of oils and wax).

Finished pair of tongs

Setting pins

On By CarynIn Craft

I have learned a new skill! Hurray! I have probably been watching too much Forged in Fire; I had a desire to learn to set a pin in wood, which they don’t actually show how on the screen. Turns out, it is not that difficult. Getting the holes set evenly is another matter!

Drilling holes

First, I drilled holes the size of my brass wire. My drill bit was the exact size, so I had to ream it out some to get the wire through. When drilling, support the back of the piece with scrap wood. By drilling into the scrap wood, you reduce the chance of blowing out the back of the hole (that is experience talking!)

Wire inserted through the holes and trimmed 1/8” inch on each side

I cut my wire flush and to about 1/4” longer than the width, so that when fully inserted, the wire sticks 1/8” out each side. The fit of the wire should be snug; I used a hammer to drive it through.

Flattening out the ends of the wire with a ball peen hammer

I took the work over to the vice, because it has a small anvil area. I used a ball peen hammer to mushroom over the ends of the wire. By hammering a few times, then flipping it over, I was able to flatten out both ends of the wire. I hammered around the edge of the wire (mostly, still practicing), rather than straight in the middle. This pushes the metal outward to round the end and wedge it into the wood.

Sanding the pins smooth with a band sander

To finish, I sanded off the top of the pin so the top was smooth. The resulting brass circle is larger the than the initial hole, and fills the hole completely, so I’m fairly confident it will hold. Fun! Now what else can I pin…