Wood crochet hooks

I have discovered a new method for making wood crochet hooks that I quite like. I flatten the middle of a dowel using a spindle sander, and flatten the end perpendicular to the middle with a band sander. This sets up the grip and the head of the hook at a comfortable angle. I then thin the neck to the size hook I need, and shape the head.

Stages of crochet hook shaping

The bulk of the work goes into hand sanding the final shape. I use sandpaper rolled into tight tubes to access the inside of the hook, and flat sandpaper to smooth the outside shapes. I then use several grades of sandpaper until I’m down to 600 grit.

Hand-sanded crochet hook (left), raw shape (right)

I’m teaching an amigurumi class that uses blanket yarn to make marshmallow animals. The blanket yarn calls for a larger hook than is in most hook sets, so I’m making the hooks the students will use. The next step is to finish and make them nice and shiny so they slide through the yarn loops.

Ten hand sanded crochet hooks, unfinished

Or maybe it’s soot

I had the idea of heating up a metal stamp and burning a letter into a wood crochet hook to mark the size.

Holding a metal stamp with a silicone holder over a candle flame
Letter “L” marked on the bottom of a wooden crochet hook

I tested several times on paper before trying to burn the letter on the wood. It works OK, but I’m not sure if I actually burned the wood, or just stamped on some soot. Either way, it is marked, but for future hooks I should be able to find a more elegant way.

Unexpected heart

I’m working on making wooden crochet hooks and noticed that when two hooks face each other, it forms a heart.

Two crochet hooks, the space between forms a heart

These hooks are of the larger variety for super bulky or blanket yarn. Where I like to finish my spindles with a clear matt finish, so they have some grip, the crochet hooks get a clear gloss so they slide through loops better. The hooks in the picture are unfinished, and only partially through their sanding process. It was truly an unexpected heart.

Making drop spindles

I’ve been working on a new drop spindle. I like my previous student spindles, but they are on the light side, just over an ounce. This light weight can be more challenging, so I wanted something a little heavier for upcoming spinning classes. I sourced some beautifully made wooden whorls from Pinehurst, TX, (yes, they are marketed at toy wheels, but they make lovely whorls) and some locally obtained dowels to make the shafts.

Sand paper, carved shafts with end notch, and Pinehurst crafts wheels

The whorls are lovely, but with the 12” shafts, the weight tipped over the two ounce mark, which is heavier than I wanted. To lighten the load, I drilled out material with my drill press and a 1/2” drill bit.

Marking whorls with a template to evenly space five holes

Then came the sanding and finishing. I sanded each piece down to 600 grit, wet the wood and let it dry, then sanded with 600 grit again. Both the whorl and shaft are finished with a clear matte coating to protect from stains. The most delicate part of the spindle is where the screw hook engages the wood, so I wrap the shaft with beeswax coated silk thread to strengthen.

Finished spindles with different colored silk wrap

These spindles can be used as a top whorl with hook, or flipped over and used as a bottom whorl drop spindle with the notch to keep a half-hitch in place. I’ve tested both ways and am pleasantly surprised how long these spin! The finished weight on all of them is around 2 ounces.

Inkle Loom part 4

Time to test my inkle loom! I picked a tablet weaving pattern that had an easy 12 turns forward, 12 turns back progression for my test. I warped the loom with a cotton blend yarn in four colors. There are several ways to warp an inkle loom. For this first test, I did four strands at a time (one for each corner of the card), and used a square knot to tie the ends together.

Inkle loom warped for tablet weaving

I started the weave with four slips of card stock, as recommended by several weavers, both to get an even start and to leave room for fringe. I wove the tail back into the first few passes to lock it in.

Starting to weave

One of the big issues when tablet weaving on an inkle loom is the buildup of twist.

Twisted warp threads

Traditional tablet weaving with a backstrap allows the weaver to comb out the twist (which I would still find an irritating process). Modern weavers will make use of swivel hooks and chase the twist out to the swivel, or use a balanced pattern the has the same number of forward twists as backward twists. I also found a card flipping method that allows turning to continue in the same motion, but flips the twist. However, it flips the diagonals on the weave as well. With a solid color border this change in direction is harder to detect, but I can still see it. Hm.

Borders of the tablet weaving showing a change of diagonals (at the wooden post)

Aside from the twist issue, the weaving is going well. The tension post works, the pegs are solid (I have one peg that didn’t come out perfectly straight, but it doesn’t seem to harm the weaving at this width). Now to weave for awhile (but not too long because it goes fast).

Tablet weaving shown from below