A heddle is something in weaving that holds threads of the warp to make it faster to weave. Rather than picking over and under each warp thread with the weft, heddles can be arranged to lift (or lower) alternate warp threads so the weft yarn can pass through (the tunnel created is called a shed). Heddles come in many forms, but I learned how to do a continuous string heddle when I was reading about back strap looms. I decided to try one with my frame loom.
Frame loom with continuous string heddle at the top, and a cartoon (pattern) attached behind
I used the same thread as my warp (I’m still working away at the found ball in my inherited stash), and used a slip knot to start, then looped the thread around every other warp thread, securing each loop with two half hitches. I used one of my pick up sticks for the alternate threads. It took awhile to secure all the loops, but now that it is set up, it is much easier to switch sheds. Weavers call the drawing used as a guide a “cartoon”. My cartoon is helping guide my curve work.
Opening a shed with a continuous string heddle, then using a pick up stick to hold the shed openShed kept open with a pick up stick to make space for the warp threadOpposite warp threads lifted with a second pick up stick
I’m trying some slightly thinner yarn on my frame loom and it is working much better with the sett (how far apart the warp strings are). I’m also experimenting with hatching (as seen in the picture above where the blue and white mix). As I consider buying or making a loom that is heddle bar friendly and has adjustable tension, I also need to consider lap space. My cat has started to reclaim lap time after the arrival of the puppy, and she doesn’t much care what I am doing as long as she can lounge!
My newly purchased book and my loom to practice the new things I’m learning!
I’ve been happily pouring over my new book “The Art of Tapestry Weaving” by Rebecca Mezoff. I’ve been following her blog for awhile and it was there I saw the upcoming release and so pre-ordered it. I had every intention of reading it cover to cover then go back to weaving. It lasted one chapter before I was too excited and had to warp my loom and try what I was reading about. But, being me, I’m not starting with a tapestry, I’m making dish clothes, because again, even an imperfect dish cloth is useful. Oh the ideas I have for weaving alpaca though!! But first cotton, and the loom I own. (Then later make my own with bits and bobs from the hardware store. She has instructions on that in the book too! Joy!)
When learning a new craft, the initial pieces are usually… well, let’s just say wonky. The value in these works is what we learn from making them, even if they aren’t aesthetically pleasing. Although I wasn’t enamored with weaving at the beginning (as I completely was with spinning), it is apparently going to wiggle its way into my life because I can’t get it out of my mind. I do not have the money or floor space for a large fancy loom, or even a medium one, but I do have many sticks. I found references to back strap looms, which are used throughout the world to make intricate and beautiful textiles. With sticks. And string.
Initial test setup of a back strap loom
The back strap goes around the weaver’s hips, and the other end is secured to a stationary object, or the weaver’s feet. I had some dowels taken from a recycled toy rack, and some nylon rope in the garage, so I grabbed those, then gathered smaller dowels in my craft room, a piece of fabric for a back strap, and yarn. The only thing I made was a beater stick, which I cut from some 1/8” maple I had in my wood bin.
Attempted weaving, very wonky
My first attempt was confounding. I use online resources, videos, and pictures, and I’m not sure why my middle is tight and the edges are loose. What I did learn, though, is how to make a continuous string heddle stick, which lifts opposite warp threads than the shed stick, and makes weaving much faster as you don’t have to pick up warp threads on the back pass each time. This knowledge was completely worth the wonkiness. I decided to try again.
Second attempt at weaving with a back strap loom
With my second attempt I set up the warp with the same yarn as I wanted for the weft, and I used my foot for tension. (Because I am not used to sitting on the floor and it hurts, setting up this way lets me sit in my recliner. Cushy!) I also refined my sticks and used some knitting needles to hold the warp. What I learned this time was that the knitting needles are aluminium, not steel as suggested in the tutorial, and my tension may be a problem as I bent the needle on the far end. Oops. I also learned that all yarn is not created equal. The string I used for the warp and heddle the first time slid back and forth just fine. Sliding the heddle string along this different warp yarn felted the heddle and the warp together, making it inoperable.
Heddle string and warp yarn felted together
I shall try again, maybe after looking at some more pictures and videos.
For Father’s Day I decided to weave my Dad a small tapestry with wool. I looked at the yarn I had available and decided I had the colors for a dog nose and tongue (yes, really). I wanted large blocks of color that didn’t need excessive detail, so a super closeup fit the bill.
Weaving the shapes upside down
I warped the loom with thin cotton, and used store bought black and pink merino wool and my own spindle spun orange wool (mostly merino) for the weft. I wove upside down because I figured that would be easier with the shapes I wanted. I did make a sketch and used that behind the weaving as my guide.
Woven base colors finished and removed from the loom
I found it easier to weave in the ends as I went. I finished with the fringeless method of pulling the weft through the work then weaving in. Although the shapes were recognizable as a tongue, probably a dog’s, I decided to add some embroidery to help define the shapes. I used a digital art program to sketch and refine the ideas before I attempted thread.
Digital sketch on photo of tapestry
I used the pink and black to outline and smooth out the blocks of color, then used a sparkly gray acrylic for the nose. I found the stem stitch served best. Definition on the tongue was made with a coral colored yarn.
Embroidered tapestry
To display the tapestry, I chose to mount it on a fabric covered frame. I had a pre-stretched cotton covered frame, to which I stapled thin batting, then a rough cotton fabric (of all the fabric in my stash, I like the texture of this best). I sewed the tapestry to the fabric using a curved needle and cotton thread. As I sewed I was able to even out the edges at least a little! I did label the back and attach hanging wire as well. The title of the piece is “Doggie Kisses”.
Mounted small tapestry
I may consider more small embroidered tapestries in the future. The process of making and even mounting this one was quite enjoyable!
