I have finished a new fiber page for my spinning book! I mounted all my samples from hand spinning soybean top (top is the description of the fiber preparation, involves combing, and produces parallel fibers) on prepped black card stock. I would definitely use this fiber again, it is very strong, yet so soft.
As a comparison to yesterday’s throwback post, here is my latest pair of socks finished. These are women’s size 5 socks knitted from fingering weight variegated super-wash merino wool and nylon yarn. I knitted them at the same time with two circular needles, which I much prefer over double pointed needles. They were knitted toe-up, which I also prefer, except for binding off. I tore out and reknit the top of one sock three times trying to get a stretchy bind-off. I ended up with a tubular bind-off, which is like a Kitchener grafting stitch, and goes well with 1×1 ribbing. I don’t care for the heel construction on these; I didn’t grasp the way to pick up stitches that were wrapped on the short rows. The good news is that there are dozens of different ways to do heels.
My youngest reports that they are quite comfy. I do think hand knit socks are worth the effort for this reason.
My current endeavors are not my first foray into knitting socks, as proven here in a picture from November of 2003. I was knitting with thicker wool, and sewed tooled leather to the soles to make a slipper. Tooling leather isn’t the ideal slipper sole, it is thick and stiff. Now I would use suede or a finished supple leather, something to reduce the chance of slipping while walking more than the simple tooling I tried here. I do like how neat my stitches are, though, and worsted weight yarn knits up much quicker than sock weight yarn!
This was over 20 years ago. Hm.
I made four example swatches from my spun soybean fiber: knitting, crochet, weaving, and nålbinding.
The knitting swatch tells the most about the yarn, the obvious skew is because my singles have more twist than my ply. This bias does not have a significant impact on the other swatches. The nålbinding has several small knots because I could not get the fiber to felt together. I used a 1.75mm hook for the crocheted coaster, which was on the small side because the stitching is dense and stiff. The soy yarn is incredibly strong; I can’t break a single strand with my hands, but it is also incredibly soft even with the amount of twist I put in the single. There is good reason that it also carries the name vegetable cashmere. It also blocks well. It was very easy to shape when wet, and kept that shape when dry.
I was able to square up the knitting, and give the woven swatch some more twist in the fringe. The nålbinding swatch stitches opened up, but the crochet didn’t have much change, probably due to the density of the stitches.
The next step is to mount the swatches in my fiber book.
Making Celtic button knots is one of my favorite things to do. I use them for decorative ends, jewelry clasps, and now I have a way of making stitch markers for knitting! It is a great DIY for the stitch marker exchange at your favorite fiber meetup.
Here is my DIY video. It is a single take and you can hear my dogs pacing around me in the video, but all the data is there. For those that prefer pictures and words, I’ve provided steps below.
Critters and Craft 