Expanding my fiber book

I’ve been quite frustrated with options for expanding my fiber book. The longest binding post screws I could find were not long enough, and the “extenders” had multiple reviews that that the threads didn’t fit, and I couldn’t find extenders that came with the caps. Bah. Time for a trip to the hardware store, specialty fasteners to the rescue. I found 5 inch threaded rods and some acorn nuts. They aren’t as fancy as a binding post, but they get the job done and I can probably fit another 10 pages in my book. I did have to adjust the cover to accommodate the acorn nuts, but it worked just fine to unfold the edge. A photo book this size would be very heavy and unwieldy, but my fiber pages are light and have thick spacers, so it works. I suppose I could separate up the pages into different books (shocking, right?), but right now I’d rather spend my money on fiber than book covers.

Photo description: Acorn nut on a threaded rod going through the edge of a photo book, sticking up about one inch over the cover, colored pages are spaced with white foam.

It is in my plan to eventually have an elegant external presentation, but I’m still cogitating on how I want that to look. This does the job for now.

Corn fiber page

The Ingeo corn top was an interesting addition in my plant fiber sample bundle. It feels like cotton, but has a much longer staple length (the length of the individual fibers). I spun it up on a drop spindle and made a two-ply yarn.

Photo description: clockwise from the top left: Hearthside Fibers description card; paper bobbin holding the single; paper bobbin holding 2-ply; crocheted round (size C hook); four selvage woven sample(Clover mini loom); knit sample (size 4 needles); un-spun fiber in a paper drawer

I perused an internet search on the fiber, and liked the semi-science description (although it is still marketing speak) from Paradise Fibers:

“Extract dextrose from plant fibers, ferment, distill, and extract lactic acid into a polymer, creating silky, lightweight roving. Ideal for garments, biodegradable, breathable, high wickability, and flame resistance. Crimp and resilience make knitting easy. Low odor, good moisture management, fast drying, and soil release. Dye just like a protein fiber and marvel at the results! Renewable, natural, and simply divine.”

Some other sites also say that it is a good fiber for people with sensitive skin. I would certainly wear it. The samples I made up felt wonderfully soft. This is definitely a fiber I would buy in larger quantities to make full-sized project.

Hemp page

I finished another fiber page (really I did three together, but I’m going to spread it out in this blog). This page is about hemp. The hemp top, combed hemp fibers, came in a collection of plant fibers as a gift from my sister. I spun the singles on a drop spindle, then made a two-ply yarn using a different drop spindle. The fiber was nice to spin, but the resulting yarn was stiff and scratchy, even after setting the twist by boiling. Hemp is usually used to make rope and strong fabrics, certainly not anything you would want next to your skin. I made a knitted swatch with size 4 needles, a crocheted round with size C hook, and a woven sample with four salvages using a Clover mini-loom and doubling the warp threads. Even though I wouldn’t make clothing with this yarn, I think it is the neatest page I’ve done so far.

Photo description: Clockwise from top left, card from Hearthside fibers, three bobbins with single, 2-ply, and set 2-ply yarn, crocheted lace round, woven not-quite rectangle (still working on my weaving tension), knitted rectangle, and a card stock drawer with hemp fiber.

Crochet kits

Rather than take separated supplies to my crochet class, I made up individual kits. Each kit has enough yarn to make two amigurumi animals, yarn for the face, a wooden crochet hook, a wire stitch marker, a yarn needle, chenille sticks, and stuffing.

Measuring yarn but subtractive weighing

To divide up the yarn, I placed the big ball of yarn on the scale, tared it, then wound off onto the ball winder. When the scale read the value I needed (negatively), I snipped the yarn and started a new ball.

Supplies prepped
Kits bagged

Each kit will also have a pattern and a label.

Wood crochet hooks

I have discovered a new method for making wood crochet hooks that I quite like. I flatten the middle of a dowel using a spindle sander, and flatten the end perpendicular to the middle with a band sander. This sets up the grip and the head of the hook at a comfortable angle. I then thin the neck to the size hook I need, and shape the head.

Stages of crochet hook shaping

The bulk of the work goes into hand sanding the final shape. I use sandpaper rolled into tight tubes to access the inside of the hook, and flat sandpaper to smooth the outside shapes. I then use several grades of sandpaper until I’m down to 600 grit.

Hand-sanded crochet hook (left), raw shape (right)

I’m teaching an amigurumi class that uses blanket yarn to make marshmallow animals. The blanket yarn calls for a larger hook than is in most hook sets, so I’m making the hooks the students will use. The next step is to finish and make them nice and shiny so they slide through the yarn loops.

Ten hand sanded crochet hooks, unfinished