Major Chord recipe

I have a new favorite alcoholic beverage. It came from experimentation with some cupboard favorites, and we couldn’t find an existing name for it, so my husband came up with a great name: Major Chord. The recipe has three ingredients and they go together very well.

Photo description: soft yellow liquid in a tall glass with ice sitting on a tatted coaster

Major chord:

  • 2 ounces Deep Eddy Peach Vodka
  • 1 ounce lemon juice
  • 1/2 can Goslings Diet Ginger beer
  • Ice

I stir the mixture with a bar spoon.

I could even take the analogy further and compare it to a barbershop quartet where the ginger beer is the bass, giving a depth of flavor; the peach vodka is the lead, giving the bright melody; the lemon juice is the baritone, giving it zing; and the ice is the tenor, floating on top and adding sparkle.

But only after I’ve had a couple.

SMO

If you start following treadle sewing machine groups, you’ll see frequent use of the acronym SMO, which stands for Sewing Machine Oil. This lubricant is vital, especially for older machines. Of course Singer recommends using Singer SMO, but I find the applicator to be clunky, so I took the advice of several treadle machine bloggers and purchased squeeze bottles with a stainless steel tube to facilitate precise oil placement.

Photo description: 2 ounce plastic squeeze bottle with 1.5” stainless applicator, filled with Singer Machine Oil

I purchased my bottles on Amazon, and it was a little tricky because the name is awkward: plastic squeeze bottle with stainless applicator. Accurate, but hard to search without all the words. Any how, I found them, filled one with SMO, and love how much easier it is to apply the oil without overshooting. I did worry about light getting through the bottle and degrading my oil, but after researching, it is better to be able to see the oil to check for changes (darker, cloudy). I might still keep the bottle in the dark, because some things are deeply ingrained.

Three ways

I recently learned another method for securing the start and end of a seam on a treadle sewing machine with no reverse. With this method, you make a few stitches, lift the foot, move the material to the beginning, and stitch over the first stitches.

Photo description: sewing machine foot moved back to the beginning of a seam after a few stitches
Photo description: seam sewn on a Singer model 66 treadle machine using the lift and restitch method to secure the start of the seam

This trick joins my bag with two other methods. There is the turn-the-whole-fabric way, where you turn the fabric 180 degrees around the needle in the down position, put the foot down, sew a few stitches, then plant the needle, lift the foot and turn the fabric back to the original position, lower the foot and keep sewing. Also there is the tiny stitch method, where the stitch length is set to near zero to start and end a seam, but lengthened in the middle. All three methods work well to make it harder for the stitches to pull out.

On more modern machines there is a reverse button that allows the sewing machine to stitch backwards. Treadling an antique machine backwards will at best break the thread, or worse, make a tangled mess of your bobbin.

Return of the hook

I finally did reunite a metal hook to my favorite drop spindle. I’m currently spinning Ramie combed top from Hearthside fibers. Ramie is a thornless member of the nettle family, and the fibers harvested from the stems are long, strong, and fine.

Photo description: lock of Ramie showing the long fine fibers, held in my hand, asphalt road in the background

I allowed myself to spin fine with this fiber, since on my last fiber I spun thick. I did not try to spin as fine as I could, that will be a later challenge, but just to spin a nice comfortable single.

Photo description: single spun Ramie fiber on a drop spindle, asphalt road in the background

I remembered to grab a cup hook and screw it into the top of the spindle, eventually. It really does make a difference in the spin of the spindle, because the arch of the hook allows the spindle to hang closer to its center of gravity, giving a smoother longer rotation.

Photo description: drop spindle with no hook, hanging from yarn secured with a half hitch, showing the point of suspension at the side of the shaft
Photo description: drop spindle with a hook, with the yarn secured by wrapping a couple times around the hook, showing the point of suspension centered on the shaft

It also helps that I am spinning clockwise again, which does not unscrew the hook. I will have to think on a way to add a hook that is secured without a screw or just glue, that can spin either way with ease.

Throwback Thursday: Egyptian Coil Bracelet

Here is a throwback to May 2008 of a work in wire that looks more complicated than it is.

Photo description: Egyptian coil bracelet made from 22 gauge silver wire with handmade toggle clasp

I enjoy items that are made my connecting identical elements to form something new. The Egyptian coil bracelet is made up of lengths of wire spiraled in opposite directions from the ends and folded in the middle. Each link connects through the center fold loop; the spacing between links depends on the length of the loop.

Although I like the look of the bracelet, the darn thing catches on everything. The thin gauge wire is easier to coil into a tight spiral, but when it catches on a thread or pocket, the wire pulls open. It is a good linkage study, though I recommend using 20 gauge wire or thicker.