Throwback Thursday: fabric cat box

Photo description: Sophie the dilute calico on a wood framed fabric covered hammock and hide box made from white and gray patterned fabric

In September 2018 I made a second furniture item for the outdoor cat Sophie. This one was much, much more popular than the insulated bench. I started by making a small frame with 2x4s, then painted it.

Photo description: upside down cat box showing the painted frame, photo taken in 2026

I used outdoor fabric with a pretty white and gray pattern and sewed a cover for the frame, with two slits on each side secured with white bias tape. This was all before I started this blog, but I did make a social media cry.

Photo description: “Running of out bobbin thread…” in type and “2” from the END!!” In handwriting, showing the bottom seam of the cover for the cat bench and an empty modern sewing bobbin and a crying emojii

To keep the cover in place I punched my own washers from aluminum blanks. I’m not sure why I couldn’t find premade washers. I probably put them somewhere safe.

Photo description: disc cutter set up to punch a hole in the center of a circular aluminum blank

I used four washers and four screws to secure the bottom edge of the cover on the non-slit sides to the wood legs. This works quite well and has held up for 8 years.

More hemming

I hand hemmed a second pair of pants, this time one woven with stripes. They are straight leg pants, so I could line up the stripes, and they already had a small hem, which I used to hide the stitches completely with a slip stitch.

Photo description: hemmed pant legs, left one inside out, right one right side out

I love how the slip stitch is nearly entirely invisible!

Hem stitching: rib knit

The whip stitch is very useful for putting hems on finely knit items like t-shirts or soft pants. Because fine knits are difficult to unravel, you don’t need to fold over the edge twice, you can stitch over the cut edge, which also gives the hem a lower profile. If you are hemming a ribbed knit, lining up the ribs helps keep the fabric even and gives a nice gauge for stitch size!

Photo description: hemming fine ribbed knit pants with a hand-sewn whip stitch

I started at a seam, and hid the thread knot in the seam fold. Then I put the needle through the pearl side (indent) stripe on the inner layer, and just picked up a couple loops on the next rib of the outer layer. To keep the stitches at the right tension, after stitching a few I pulled open the ribbing to draw in the thread. This leaves the stitches loose so they won’t show and are less likely to snap when the fabric stretches. Pulling the stitches tight would result in a visible stitch line that would break the first time the fabric stretched.

Photo description: finished hem that is nearly invisible

Wheel chair bag

The pocket on the back of the wheelchair can only hold a pamphlet, anything thicker pokes the rider in the back. So I made a separate organizer type for long zoo trips where we need spaces for water bottles. My youngest requested space fabric, so we selected a print-on-demand pattern from Spoonflower on cotton denim fabric. I made three pouches by sewing a sleeve so none of the white backing shows.

Photo description: denim fabric sewn right-sides together, turned inside out and the seam pressed with a wood seam roller to lay flat

I put three sleeves on the backing fabric, and sewed down the center to make six pouches. I then made loops for the top corners to go over the handles and straps for the bottom to attach to the wheelchair frame. All of this sandwiched between another rectangle of denim. My Singer model 66 treadle handled the denim up to six layers, but eight was a struggle (a little extra oomph with the handwheel sometimes works, but you risk a bent needle). When I turned the entire assembly right side out I had to move the edge stitches in so I wasn’t sewing through 12 layers of denim (this organizer is hefty!)

Photo description: finished organizer installed on the back of a Drive brand wheelchair

I’m pleased with the flat construction, it doesn’t interfere knees when pushing and it folds up with the chair well.

I’m also trying to track my time on projects. This one took me 2.5 hours of active time.

Singer treadle base

After removing the rotting wood top and wire brushing the rust and wasp nests from the Singer Treadle machine base, it was time to refinish the cast iron.

Photo description: Singer Treadle machine base from 1907 before polish

I chose to treat the cast iron with black stove polish to keep the rust away and keep it close to the original color.

Photo description: using a soft bristle brush to apply the black stove polish into the intricate cast emblem on the side of the treadle
Photo description: completed application of black stove polish

I used squares of cotton and a small brush to get the polish in the cracks and crevices. It was satisfying to see the paste melt into the iron.

The wheels all rolled well, so I cleaned them with a brass wire brush on my rotary tool and treated them with sewing machine oil.

Photo description: steel wheel before picture
Photo description: steel wheel after picture with the dust and dirt removed

The plan is to put on a table top, but keep the treadle functional by putting holes in the top so the drive band can come up through and run a device on the surface. I may experiment with some scrap wood first.