Weaving plarn

Back to talking about plarn. Yesterday I posted about how I connect and spin loops of plastic grocery bags as I stitch. I wanted to learn a new nålbinding stitch and using plarn was a perfect way to practice without wasting expensive fiber. The stitch is a Finnish 2+2 stitch as described here (this page also talks about how different connections affect the finished texture, I chose M1 + F1 because it looks more braided). I started my chain, and made it long enough that I could make a beach mat, if I so chose. It is easiest to do nålbinding in the round, so I continued in the round (nålbinding can absolutely be cut and tidied up later). As I progressed, I felt the texture would be better suited for a bag than a mat (it has a rough feel due to the twist). So then the dilemma was how to deal with the base of the bag. I could stitch it straight, as a tote bag, which wouldn’t stand on its own. I could sew an oval piece of hard plastic in, but what plastic, and would it still be recycling? I could nålbind an oval, which is downright tricky. What about weaving? It is an experimental piece anyway, could I weave a base? I found a box that fit snugly in my nålbound tube and connected the first loop by threading it through the edge and looping it back on itself (as you do for connecting loops).

Starting the weaving

I then gave the loop some twist and ran it the long way along the box, out through the edge, then back in through the next stitch. I added loops and twist as I went, making the warp threads for the weaving.

Setting up the warp threads with plarn

When it was time to start the weft, I realized that I didn’t have to break the plarn, I could just turn the box and keep going. I used a plain weave (over, under, over, under), and used a pick up stick to hold one shed, and a longer wooden needle to pick up the alternate threads. My nålbinding needle was best for connecting to the edge because it is smooth and doesn’t abrade the plastic.

Weaving the weft on the bottom

I had to adjust my spacing as I went; I started off putting the weft through every edge stitch, then ended up every third stitch to get the weft to be straight. At the end, I wove in the tail and clipped it on the inside of the bag. (Only one tail to weave in, hurray!)

Woven base for nålbound bag (in progress)

This was a very pleasing experiment. I really like the woven base: it feels nice and is sturdy. I will continue to build up the sides with nålbinding, but that will take awhile. I’ll post an update when it is done!

Fear is the project killer

Even I am not immune to project fear, which leads to bundles of yarn in various states of assembly moldering in a corner because I’m not sure what to do. My forever alpaca project has been that way for months (I started it over a year ago) because I had an inkling that I didn’t have enough to make a vest. I was right.

Nålbound spirals laid out on my favorite vest

The idea was to lay out pieces on a vest that fit well, then sew the bits together to form a new vest. I’m not really wanting a bolo vest, and I spun all that fiber at one time, so I would be more consistent. I’m not sure I could spin it up the same now. So. Time for a new plan. I laid out the spirals in several different configurations, and when I had one I liked, took a picture and started sewing using the tails I left after nålbinding. To sew, I used a mattress type stitch, where the needle points the same direction for each stitch, just switching sides.

Two images showing stitching the circles together, picking up loops on the left and right respectively

I was planning on a scarf, but when I did a test fit (as you do), I realized I could shape it more like a shawl or large collar.

Nålbound circles connected
Back of shawl
Front of shawl

I also realized that I may still be able to turn it into a vest by adding a body section. Hmm.

Doll jacket

I used the gimp yarn I spun to make some more doll clothes, because there wasn’t near enough to do much else. I wanted to see if I understood the construction of a nålbound sweater, but it is very difficult to get a sweater on a doll, so I also tested cutting the fabric and finishing it.

Nålbound doll sweater made from the bottom up

I used an existing shirt as a guide for the dimensions, and started from the bottom. When I reached the armpit area, I made a loop on each side, then calculated my decreases. I added 50 stitches with the arm holes and needed to reduce an additional 20, all over 7 rows, so each row needed 10 decreases. I placed markers and did decreases at and between the markers (so I didn’t have to count stitches!) I then cut the garment up the front and removed the partial strands, then pulled the attached threads snug. Using a tapestry needle I ran the ends back through the fabric on the inside.

Running the cut ends back through the fabric

I was going to add an edging, but I quite liked how the edge came out just by neatening the cut yarn. Nålbinding is amazing! I then added sleeves to the arm holes. I had a little extra yarn, so I made a matching ear warmer as well.

Finished doll jacket and ear warmer, 2-ply gimp Merino wool hand spun, Finnish 1+2 F1 stitch

This doll is also sporting a new wig. Her old wig’s glue deteriorated and it fell off, so we ordered a new one that matched my daughter’s current hairstyle and superglued it in place. I’m not ready for doll hospital work, but was glad I could do a slight repair. Her original eye color faded due to moisture attack, however I am not up for changing eyes. That is intense. I used sharpies and some isopropyl alcohol to repaint the eyes so she didn’t look like she had heavy cataracts.

Nålbinding swatches

I did some crochet, some knitting, and now it is time for nålbinding! I only had two ply and four ply yarn left, but I tried using a tapestry needle as well as a hand-made nål on the two ply. Sizing the loops to the tapestry needle was much too small and much too tight, but the 25mm diameter nål made a nice fabric for both the two ply and the four strand cable ply. I stitched in the round, then cut the tubes open. The swatch does not unravel when cut! Although a few tiny bits of yarn do fall out. Of the three methods of fabric construction, nålbinding is the slowest, but I enjoy it the most. The process is soothing and the resulting fabric is nicely stretchy (at least with this stitch).

Nålbinding swatches made from hand spun merino wool
Nålbinding while laying outside in a hammock
Cleaned up the cut edge by removing the partial threads, snugging up the attached threads and running them down the back of the work

Two birds, one nål

I have had a little trouble getting back into walking. I’ve been taking walks with my dog Griffin for over seven years, but our newest dog, Missy, is scared of people on walks, and I don’t want to push her to a point of aggression, and she can’t be left alone. So that leaves me walking with no dog (and no people, because pandemic). When walking I have to hear my surroundings, so that nixes listening to music or audio recordings. Walking the neighborhood under these conditions is boring. What to do?

Nålbinding to the rescue! I have found that I can nålbind and walk at the same time. Now, it is with a stitch I am comfortable with (fun fact, there are 4,000 or so ways to loop yarn into a continuous fabric, and naming can be tricky and a bone of contention in nålbinding circles), I am working on small pieces (that will eventually be sewn together into something larger), and the road is fairly even. I have read that people can walk and spin, or even walk and knit, so compared to those nålbinding and walking is an achievable task. I do start my spirals before I venture out, because that is the trickiest bit, but once I’m in the steady rhythm of the pattern, I’m good to go. I think I may even be able to crochet and walk, if I had my yarn in a bag (I can make beanie hats from memory). Knitting and walking? I drop stitches sitting down, so that is probably out. Spinning and walking? Ooo, now there is an exciting goal!

Working on a nålbinding spiral as I walk the neighborhood
Finished spiral, still walking (but not for long, as it is now boring again and my feet hurt)