Nålbinding Samoyed

I am happy to report that the Samoyed dog yarn I spun does well in nålbinding. I was afraid the yarn wouldn’t felt, and my favorite way to join in yarn for nålbinding is to unravel a section on each end, trim the ends so I have two sections on one side and one on the other, build up twist in the short end, linearly braid the ends together, let the twist come back into the braided section, then rub it between my hands to lightly felt it. (Hm, that sounds more complicated than it is, I really need to do a blog post on it specifically.) It is a belt and suspenders and sticky tape way to join yarn, but it is strong, and almost undetectable, especially after incorporating it into the work.

Photo description: Nålbound tube using a Finnish 1+2 stitch and Samoyed three-ply yarn
Photo description: tube cut open to make a rectangular swatch

This is one of my favorite nålbinding stitches. It is easy to remember and I feel like I have a connection with my Finnish and Scandinavian DNA.

Twine as I go

I’ve started a new project using the processed flax fiber from Sally Pointer’s twine kit. I’m making a twisted loop bag and twining the cordage for it as I go.

Photo description: two strand twined cordage made from flax fiber (in the background)
Photo description: the start of a twisted loop bag made of flax cordage, approximately six hours of worktime

I started the project as a car riding diversion. I like the twining because I can do it mostly without looking, which allows me to watch the scenery going by.

I learned to twine with a Z twist, which is opposite of the S twist that Sally Pointer demonstrates for beginners. This is fine, but when I went to start the twisted loops for the bag, the technique makes Z twists for each loop. I thought my bag would be happier (less twisty) if I made S twists to balance the Z cordage, so had to adjust the way I made loops by going in the opposite way from the video. It took some brain power, and I’m going to have to be careful going forward to keep the same stitch direction, but I think it will be worth it.

I’m not using a needle for this project, just flax and my hands. I started with a nalbinding needle, but it kept slipping off, which was irritating, but the newly made flax cordage is stiff enough that if I fold the end, it is easy to thread through the loops.

Last thought on this post: flax cordage is strong. The line I’m making is fairly thin, about four-five strands doubled, but I cannot break it with my hands.

Fiber Study: Camel roving

Photo description: fiber study page for camel roving from Oklahoma Mini Mill, (counterclockwise) with a card from the mill, a sample of roving, knit swatch, woven swatch with embroidery, crocheted round swatch, nålbound swatch, sprang swatch, two ply on a paper bobbin, and single ply on a paper bobbin

I assembled my camel roving fiber page! I quite like camel fiber; it is nice to spin, and soft. I would definitely work with the fiber again. In fact, I have two and a half balls of 2-ply yarn with which to plan a project. Exciting. I have also decided to add a synopsis of my blog posts about the fiber to the pages, so I can remember how I felt about the fiber. Now to figure out how to attach the printed pages. I tried some washi tape, which surprisingly doesn’t like card stock much. Hm.

Photo description: same page with the swatches lifted to reveal the hand written descriptions

The roving sample isn’t as perfect as it came from the mill; I liked spinning so much I forgot to leave a bit unspun. The fiber in the box was spun, and then I brushed it back open. Oops.

Fiber page: Shetland lace

The Baize Shetland wool was the first Livestock Conservancy Shave ‘Em to Save ‘Em fiber I purchased. I bought a 13 oz batt, and have been spinning it at demonstrations and fair booths. I’ve been quite remiss in actually making a fiber page! That is now rectified, and this wonderful fiber has a page in my sampler book.

Photo description: Post card from the breeder (top left), single spun and two ply yarn (top right), unspun wool as purchased scoured and carded (middle left), crochet round (middle right), two Shetland lace knit samples (bottom left), nålbinding (bottom middle), and a woven swatch with combed fringe.
Photo description: same page, but with the samples folded up to show the descriptions

Shetland wool is a joy to spin, and is definitely on my “will purchase again” list.

Not historical nålbinding

My experiments with nålbound bracelets continue. I tried para cord, which I did not like at all because the stitch method puts a twist into the cord, and para cord changes visually when twisted.

Photo description: orange and purple para cord nålbound with the Dalby (UOU/OUOO) stitch, showing changes in texture and width as the cord picks up twist

Although untwisting the para cord for every stitch is possible, I don’t like that the white core of the cord shows through on sharp bends or snagged sections. I do like the Dalby stitch as well as the Telemark stitch for flat interesting single row weaves. I tried some stiff finished leather cord as well, which did not work because the leather couldn’t make the bends required to lay flat. I will try it again with unfinished leather cord so I can soak it into submission.

I went back to my favorite satin cord, also called rat tail or mouse tail depending on who is doing the labeling. It is made of solid color nylon, has a nice drape for this work, and melts readily with a thread zapper.

Photo description: purple satin cord bracelet done with the Dalby stitch and finished with a macrame square knot slide and Celtic button knot end stops.