I finished twining and stitching a linen string bag using long line flax and a loop and twist construction. I would twine a section, then loop that section, so the bag was made with a continuous length of string. I did not used any tools other than my fingers. As you can see in the photo above it looks a little wonky. I took it to the sink, gave it a soak in tap water, then laid it out to dry. The transformation was remarkable.
Photo description: same bag after blocking
The bias twist in the stitches eased and it straightened out nicely. What wasn’t nice was the rust colored stains on the top.
Photo description: discoloration at the top of the bag
I used a different batch of flax for the last few rows, and I think something on my well water reacted to something in the flax, which is disappointing. I washed it with gentle laundry soap and laid it out to dry again.
Photo description: same bag after washing with gentle detergent
The rust color lessened, and now it looks more like a different batch of flax at the end, rather than a stain.
I’m also not pleased with the string ties. They are functional, but would be terrible to use to carry anything with much weight. The flax would hold, but the thin cord would cut into the flesh holding it. I do have an idea how to fix it.
My grocery store had a large display of whole coconuts in the produce section, full of husk fiber. I went a little bananas and bought eight coconuts… for the fiber.
Photo description: eight “brown” coconuts, but four are more cream colored
As I tore off the fibrous material from the coconuts I realized that maybe I didn’t need to buy eight. There is a lot of fiber! So I started with just processing four with the darkest color. I put the husk into a bucket, added water, and weighed it down with rocks.
Photo description: yellow bucket filled with coconut husk and water and two large rocks
I am also interested in making items from the coconut shells, so I found the one soft hole in the end of the coconut poked it with a gimlet, and shook out the water.
Photo description: coconut water in a bowl with the coconut on the right showing the three dents, only one of which is an actual hole, and a gimlet
On the fourth coconut I finally had a method for cracking the shell cleanly. I whacked them with a metal rod (my knife sharpener) along the equator, then took them outside to tap on the concrete. I actually managed a clean break! One.
To get the flesh from the shells, I cooked them in my pressure cooker for 5 minutes, then let them cool. I cut a small wedge from the side of the flesh, which gave enough flexibility to use a butter knife to pry out the flesh.
Photo description: small wedge cut from a cooked coconut
I removed the brown skin on the coconut meat with a vegetable peeler.
Photo description: coconut shells and peeled coconut meat drying over the kitchen sink
Next steps include cleaning up the fiber and polishing the shells. And figuring out what to do with all that coconut meat.
The cop of yarn built up on a Turkish style spindle is called a turtle. In the photo below, you can see why. The balls of yarn look like turtle shells. I now have three single spun Southdown wool turtles from spinning as I walk. The next step is to ply the three together, but for that I will use a treadle spinning wheel and a secure way to hold the turtles.
Photo description: three turtles of single spun white Southdown wool
Turtles of yarn are center pull balls of yarn, and it is possible to ply the inside end and the outside end to make a two-ply yarn. It is even possible to walk and ply, but since I want a three ply, and don’t want to chain ply, my best option is to sit at a spinning wheel so I can closely monitor the turtles. I may see if my yarn bowl will be helpful.
When I’m going to spin on a new-to-me wheel, I like to have a field kit of things I might need to adjust the wheel.
Photo description: clockwise from the right, tanned leather, cotton string, bamboo skewers, light machine oil, pure beeswax (not pictured, scissors)
Cotton string is useful if the drive band is missing or needs to be replaced. It can also be used to tie up loose parts, or slow the spin on a bobbin (for a Lazy Kate). It is always a good idea to have some string.
The leather scrap is there for making parts. Most often I need a washer to improve the fit, especially on older wheels whose wooden parts have sagged. A heavy pair of scissors and a scrap of leather can make many, many things.
Beeswax is used on the drive band to give it some grip. The most important thing to do with an unfamiliar wheel is to check the alignment of the wheel with the whorl. Then check the tension. A little bit of wax along the string can then give more advantage. Beeswax is good for wood, so will cause no damage.
Oil is for the bearings and places friction occurs, like the connections of the flyer, or bobbin, or spindle. I used it sparingly, usually just one drop is enough.
The bamboo skewers or toothpicks can replace a missing post pin, or be used as a wedge. They were an unexpected bonus to have when I was working with a Great Wheel. I think I will add tissue paper to my next kit, as a bit of tissue paper around a post end can tighten up the fit.
A scrap of cloth for wiping away dust and old oil would be a good idea too.
As I was demonstrating spinning on 165-year-old Great Wheel, I spent an equal amount of time spinning, talking about the wheel, and adjusting the wheel alignment.
This Double Nut New England wheel has a flat wheel surface made by bending two long thin wood boards into a circle, tapering the ends, and securing with iron rivets. The flat surface does not hold onto the cotton drive band like a concave surface would, and alignment with the spindle post is key in keeping the band on the wheel.
Photo description: view of the Great Wheel from the back, one cotton band on the wheel is the drive band, the other was an attempt to keep the drive band from slipping off. It didn’t work, the drive band merrily skipped right over it.
I found that the wheel post was not glued or nailed into the table, and had some play forward and backward as well as side to side. I attempted to wedge the wheel post in using a business card, with limited success.
Photo description: base of the wheel post with a scrap of card board wedged in
I did have some luck when I ran some cotton string from the wheel post to the spindle post. Mainly the line of cotton rubbed up against the drive band, keeping it on the wheel. Not an ideal situation, but a decent stop-gap measure.
Photo description: cotton string going around the wheel post and spindle post
I also tightened the drive band by cutting it and redoing the knot. I used a double sliding knot that is near impossible to undo once it is slid together. Once the ends are trimmed the knot also has a low profile, making it easier to pass through the grooves on the accelerator whorl. I ran some pure beeswax along the drive band as well, to give it some grip.
Photo description: tying the cotton drive band together with a sliding knot
The biggest factor in keeping the drive band on was to make sure the wheel was aligned with the accelerator whorl. The whorl has several grooves so the drive band can go in the one that aligns best to the center of the wheel. There was play in both the spindle post and wheel post, so keeping them in alignment was a game of concentration. When the area was quiet, I could get quite a long spin going, but when I started talking, my concentration would drift and the drive band would pop off.
I think I will add some tissue to my kit. Wrapping the base of a post with paper tissue can often increase the security of the connection, without causing permanent damage. I’ll talk about my spinning wheel field kit in another post!
This post is part of a series about my experience demonstrating spinning on a 1860s Great Wheel in Mansfield Texas.
Critters and Craft 