Make a box

Here is how to make a smaller box from a big box. We get a regular supply of cardboard delivered to the house, but they are usually too big to use to wrap gifts directly. So I use them make smaller boxes.

What you need:

  • Large cardboard box (or sheets of cardboard)
  • Heavy scissors (I use kitchen shears)
  • Ruler
  • Pencil
  • Length, width, and height for the new box

Start by deconstructing the old box. Most cardboard boxes have a single glued seam along a side edge that can be pulled apart. Lay the box flat and layout the cut and fold lines for the new box.

Cut and fold lines laid out on cardboard

I recommend using existing fold lines if possible. Measuring out from the center, mark the width of the new box with dotted lines (for folds). My box is 6x6x5, so the sides are all the same width. If you need different width and length, alternate the values as shown in pencil in the picture above. Mark the height of the box across the sides also with a dotted fold line. Make a one inch tab on the end (mine is on the right). Above and below each side, measure out flaps that have a height equal to 1/2 the width. Then using heavy scissors, cut out along the outside lines.

Box pattern cut from larger box

Cut the flaps free by making two cuts on either side of the line. This makes gives room in the corners when the box is assembled.

Box flaps cut free

Before folding the sides, tab, and flaps, gently score the lines using a ruler and a pointy, but not sharp implement (such as the outside tip of the scissors, or a dull pencil). Then gently fold the cardboard along the line. If the cardboard buckles instead of folding neatly, score again a little harder, and work the fold with your fingers close to the line.

Flaps, sides, and tab prefolded

Check the box by folding it together with the flap inside the opposite edge. If it looks serviceable, use hot glue to secure the tab in place. The box can be store flat, or assembled with packing tape.

Assembled box

Corralling end caps

It drives me crazy trying to find the end caps for my knitting needles. I take them off to knit, and when I set them down inevitably one slinks off to hide somewhere. So I tethered them. I pushed safety pins through the flared edge of the end cap, then clipped the pin to a hair band. When I’m ready to knit, I slide the hair band on my wrist. When I’m done, the little rascals are right there.

End caps tamed with safety pins and a hair band

My safety pins are a little different; they came with a knitting kit, so may actually be stitch markers. They have a nice sharp point and will go through the end cap material. A standard safety pin would work as well. I do recommend using a stretchy bracelet type object, so there are no clasps to undo. I don’t recommend using one of those silicone bracelets with the friction clasp, because the clasp is likely to pop open as the bracelet is pulled off and send the end caps on a merry flying trajectory across the room. (Yup, experience.)

Avoiding the jingle

With updated rabies vaccines, our dogs received new tags as well. I stopped getting name tags made several years ago. The jingle of the two metal tags drives me up a wall. I’ve tried a number of methods to reduce the jingle: muffling with a layer of leather, riveting the name tag onto the collar, writing on the collar in sharpie, engraving the back of the rabies tag. The leather picked up a funk, the riveted name tags are difficult to put on the madrigal type collars I prefer, the Sharpie fades, and the hand engraving is not as neat as I would like (it is on my bucket list to learn to hand engrave neatly). This year, I’m trying the label maker. I’m not sure how long the stickers will stick, but they are easy to read, easy to apply, and don’t amplify the jingle. I used my label maker with the smallest type set, trimmed the excess, and stuck them on the back of the rabies tag. I added my phone number as well, but am not about to put that image out in the web.

Rabies tags with dog names printed on a label maker

Both dogs are chipped, but if they escape the back yard, it is easier for a neighbor to call the number than to have to get the dog scanned.

There is still a tiny jingle, but it doesn’t wake me at night when they give themselves a scratch.

Fake pockets

In the realm of clothing, there is nothing more abhorrent than a fake pocket. All the hard work has been done, with the fiddly finish and neat corners, why couldn’t the designer just add a real pocket? And not one of those shallow useless pockets, but proper pockets. I’ve heard the line “it changes the line of the garment,” well, then they are more concerned with themselves than with their customer. Ok, rant over. Let’s fix the issue.

Fake pocket in women’s pants, with a simple cotton pocket ready to sew in
Clip the seam keeping the fake pocket closed, so it opens
On the wrong side, sew in the pocket over the pocket opening. You can fold in the raw pocket edges, and fold the pocket top out if you want to get fiddly. Sew along the front and back of the pocket opening, don’t worry if there are small gaps at the end of the seams, they will be at the top of the pocket.
Pocket insert installed. Crises averted. Wrongs righted. Balance restored.

Lining sewing hack

Inevitably when I sew a lining, a section of the lining slips and shows past the edge. I use pins and go slowly, but lining material tends to be slippery, especially when sewing satiny fabric to velvet.

Lining material showing past a edge

At this point there are several choices: hope no one notices (I know it is there!!), rip out the seam and try again (horror), or hand sew it. I have found a rather useful stitch to tuck in the offending blob of material.

Sewing a folding edge

To fold the lining in and keep it there, it works well to alternate small stitches near the original seam, then at the top of the original fold. Keep these stitches loose for four or five repeats, then gently pull the stitches tight. The fabric folds down and is secured!

Lining tucked and tacked
No lining showing on the edge of the velvet

This is part of an adjustment on a purchased velvet tail coat. It was faster and more economical to get a pre-made garment, then make alterations, than to make the jacket from purchased material and a pattern. Although I would have had the same issue either way; linings and velvet always gives me fits.